Good news everyone! Let's start to build the savage lady!
Here's a little reminder of what we are looking to achieve...
You can find all the tools you need in this phase here on the E2046 website!
I usually start with a fitting test of the various parts to understand where and how to work. Now the parts don't fit well because of the extra resin used to cast the model so I cut off roughly but with great attention the big, most evident parts of extra resin.
After the first rough cleaning I test the parts again and I start a more precise cleaning with a lancet or a precision knife and my set of files if needed.
Now the two parts fit perfectly and the joint is completely hidden by the structure of the model!
Now everything works fine. Here the fitting test is complete!
Let's test the other side! The same working process is used to fix all the junction points.
Here I'm trying to decide how to work with the belt. I don't want to have extra difficulties in the painting phase so the belt will be painted separately and then added to the model: to achieve this the belt is opened with the knife in a hidden area of the buckle so I can just add it to the model passing through the waist.
The head fits perfectly!
The litte trick on the belt works perfectly!
Let's clean the hair with extreme attention! This is an important focal point so some extra care is needed...
After a test I glue these lateral hair's pieces (on resin use always cyanoacrylic glue!!!). The all block fits well with the head and I prefer to have very few loose parts when I start to paint. It's also a good choice for the next phase when I'll be able to use the putty to blend these smooth parts togheter.
All is coming together... Please note that in this stage the model is standing only by the perfect fit of its joints! There is neither glue nor pins yet!
Let's repeat the same testing/cleaning/testing process on shield and mace
Now all the parts fit very well and the model is quite able to stand without a drop of glue, but what we want is an eternal and indestructible stucture, so... let's pin it!
I use my Proxxon modelling drill (you can use a Dremel, an hand drill, or even a standard drill!) to make a 1mm hole in the exact centre of the joint. I come back later to enlarge the hole to 1.5mm: I prefer to do a two step work to not stress the resin and to avoid breaks and cracks.
Now let's do the same in the contiguous part
A quick change of the drill bit to 1.5mm and I repeat the all process
I put a drop of glue in the torso's holes and I insert the metal wire. Now pins are ready to do their job!!!
Now we are ready to start the next phase: sanding and primer!!!